Your first step is to determine the type
of high-tensile fence required, the
fence design, and whether to use an electric or a non-electric approach.
A basic fence layout on paper will help you in establishing the post sizes,
spacing, length of each run, and type of brace assemblies. Keep in mind though,
your fence should be designed specifically for your particular containment
WARNING: Wire, when over-stretched, may
break and recoil causing serious injury. Caution is advised when working with
any wire. Eye and hand protection should be worn when working with high-tensile
Start by driving or placing in concrete all end and corner posts in
predetermined run. Keep in mind that an in-line strainer will pull 4,000 feet of
high-tensile wire, however, for each friction point such as a corner, bend, dip
or rise, deduct 500 feet of pull capability. Next, run out a single guide wire,
which ultimately becomes the bottom wire and will assume a straight fence line.
Figure 1. After tightening the guide
wire, drive or place in concrete the remaining posts on all dips and rises. Line
posts need not be more than 2 feet in the ground. In most cases, they do not
NOTE: Use 8-foot posts on ends, corners,
turns and dips. All 8-foot posts must be placed 48 inches into the ground. When
posts are not driven, concrete is required.
When constructing your high-tensile fence with 6 wires or less, build a single
brace at corners and ends. For an installation with 7 wires or more, a double
brace is required for corners and ends.
On the end post, drill a 3/8 inch hole, 2 inches deep and 44
inches up on the surface facing the first brace post. (Figure 3A below)
Drive a 3/8 inch hole through the first brace post 44 inches
up and inline with the end post.
Drill a 3/8 inch hole 2 inches deep into one end of the top
Drive a 3/8 inch x 5 inch brace pin 2 inches into the end
Figures 3a, 3b, 4 and 5
The top horizontal is now ready to be slipped onto the 5 inch
brace pin in the end post.
Drive a 3/8 inch x 10 inch brace pin through the brace post
into the top horizontal leaving 2 inches exposed. (Figure 3A)
Drive a staple (keeper staple) at the bottom of the end post
to prevent the bottom wire from shifting up the pole.
Wrap the brace wire (use the high-tensile wire you have for
the fence) around the exposed brace pin at the top of the first brace post
and diagonally to the keeper staple at the bottom of the end post. Repeat
this until you have two complete and tight wraps. Loop the end around the
brace pin where you started and staple both ends. (Figure 4)
On the side opposite the fence wire insert a twitch stick 2
inches between the diagonal brace wires and twist forward toward you 8 to 10
times. (Figure 5)
Secure twitch stick to the horizontal brace post with a
piece of high-tensile wire 17 to 20 inches long.
When double bracing is required, repeat the single brace procedure except a 10
inch brace pin is required for the first brace post rather than the 5 inch.
High carbon wire (high-tensile) is very strong and quite active. In order to
properly contain the wire while working the fence line, a spinning jenny (dereeler)
must be used. Unlike other types of fencing, you do not have to tie off at every
corner. String the wire on the back side of the corner brace and then return the
wire to the inside of your first line post and continue on. When pulling a
non-electric wire around a corner, place a staple behind the wire over top of
the holding staple to eliminate drag when bringing the wire to tension. With
regard to electric wires, staple horizontally above and below the wraparound
insulator. Never staple directly into the wraparound. Stop paying out wire every
165 feet (10 rods) and staple the wires from bottom to top.
NOTE: Staples should never be
driven "home" except when securing brace wire and twitch stick. This
allows for expansion and contraction of the wire throughout the entire fence
line. Should you install high-tensile Class 3 wire through drilled treated
posts, regardless of the precautions taken, free standing moisture will likely
settle and impair the expected life of the wire. Placing wire through drilled
treated posts is acceptable yet not recommended to get long life from your Class
Non-electric wires: Wrap wire around post
and onto itself. Secure with two crimping sleeves. (Figure 7)
Electric wires: Same as non-electric but use
a wraparound insulator. (Figure 7)
Splicing: Unlike the placement of two
crimping sleeves when the wire is looped around onto itself, a high-tensile
splice requires 3 crimping sleeves. A splice can also be accomplished by using a
wire link. (Figure 7)
The electric system (hot wires) requires that the line post tube insulators and
corner and end post wraparound insulators be put on the wires before affixing
the inline strainers. The tube insulators will slide down the fence line with
ease and then are stapled to the line posts.
Figures 8 & 9
Install in-line strainers (Figure 9) and tighten the wires with
the use of the strainer handle. The in-line strainers must be located near the
middle of the fence line in order to achieve the same resistance factor in both
NOTE: Prior to tightening the in-line
strainers, a tension spring should be installed on one of the wires (generally
the second wire from the top) to indicate tension. Tighten the wires slightly
(Figure 10). One crimping sleeve should be left on electric wires before
anchoring to allow for electrical hookups.
An extra sleeve should also be left on one hot wire at a gateway
for the underground hookup. Staples should lock into the rib on the tube
insulator so there will be no horizontal movement over time. Staples may be
loose over non-electric wires in order to permit the wire to respond to
expansion and contraction.
the posts are stapled, return to the in-line strainers and tighten the wires to
250 pounds of tension or better (equals 2 to 3 inches of compression of the
tension spring). Hand gauge the remaining wires to equal the tension of the wire
with the attached spring.
To allow for posts to be set in concrete, return to the in-line strainers in a
few days and tighten slowly.
Use to insure wire spacing integrity when line posts are placed more than 30
feet apart. Attach preformed spacer clip loosely with a twisting tool to each
wire so as to allow lateral wire movement.
Install at least one 6 foot galvanized or copper ground rod within 20 feet
of the fence controller. Although one ground rod may work, we recommend 3 or
more for maximum performance and shock intensity. Remember, additional ground
rods increase shock intensity. Use ground rod clamps to attach insulated ground
wire to the ground rod (clamp must bite into rod and ground wire). The wire
should be 10 to 14 gauge wire and insulated from 600 to 20,000 volts. For best
results, install 3 ground rods into the earth 6 feet deep, spaced 10 feet apart.
If possible, install ground rods in areas of constant moisture.
A. First ground rod is driven within 20 feet of fence controller B.
Ground rods are constructed of copper or galvanized metal driven 6
feet deep C. Ground rods are spaced 10 feet
apart D. Use brass grounding clamps. They
will not corrode when used with copper, galvanized or aluminum lead-out wires E.
First ground rod is driven beyond the drip-line of a building's eaves.
Fence post 3-4"x8' SYP
Fence post 4-5"x8' SYP
Fence Post 5-6"x8' SYP
Wire 4,000' 12.5 GA
Split Rail (3 HOLE)
|Post Pounder Rental $
AVERAGE Cost per FT $ call
includes posts, 4 wire, labor
PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE 04/28/2014
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